Likes and Dislikes of living in Italy

We have been in Italy now for nearly six weeks and while a short period of time we see the things that make us happy and those that annoy us.  Granted this is our immediate reaction, but I sense it won’t change much in the coming months.

 

Starting out with the likes, we just love the people!  We like to frequent the same stores and shops because they come to know your tastes and always remember to address you with a boungiorno.  Our routine is to wake at 8:00 am and then go the neighborhood coffee shop, Color Café. The people that work there are among the nicest people we have met. There is Mari, Elena, Lara and Tobia.  Mari speaks very little English; Lara a tall Italian girl is getting her certificate in English fluency, while Tobia has a very good command of English. Lastly and most impressively Elena can speak 5 languages fluently at the age of 22. Loree, an English major who has edited copy for years and currently edits books for grammar and punctuation prior to their submittal for publication, has volunteered to help Lara with her certificate. Can our readers all explain the difference between would, could, and should? Whenever any of them see us enter the café they point us towards our usual table and ask us uguale? Uguale as you might guess is similar to equal or in this case “the same.” The locals that frequent the café, like Sergio, always ask us how we are doing and make small talk with us. We also met an American woman, Amy who works for the US Government and who is married to an Italian. We also love our little gastronomia around the corner from us. Mara knows that Loree is allergic to dairy and is quick to point out the handmade dishes that are suitable for her. She often throws in a freebie at the end for us to try. The bars and restaurants also know us as the new transplants and are quick to say salve and recommend any new beers that they have in stock.

It is also a complete joy to be around our cousins. Our families lost contact in the late 1960’s, but thanks to our cousin, AnnMarie in NJ, we reconnected in 2000. You can see from some of our FB posts that we love seeing them and they love having us here. It will be up to the younger cousins to maintain the connection once we are gone. While FB and social media are nice it can’t replace a family gathering with a home cooked meal seated around a hand-made ceramic and iron table under a trellis in the garden.

 

Loree and I came to Italy to see how Italians live and experience life through their eyes.  I have to say that most Italians are not upbeat about their future. The young ones, 18-25, suffer the most with nearly 40% unemployment. The statistics here, like in the US, are greatly suspect, but given the vast difference in education between the north and the south, I would say Italy still has 2x the European average. Many of the educated ones are looking for a way out and a chance to earn some money. The way out is an education and command of English! We also see first hand how US policies can impact lives here in Europe, especially the conflicts in Iraq, Afghanistan, and Syria. Italy has a big heart and its navy is the only one rescuing migrants on a daily basis, while other nations are now shutting their boarders.

Loree and I love to eat out. It costs us less than 22 Euros for a terrific meal in town consisting of a whole pizza 4.5 Euros, gnocchi pomodoro, two salads, one glass of prosecco, a half-liter of house wine and a liter of bottled water. I like to cook as well, and groceries are far less expensive than in the States. 

Another reason for our move was the ability to jump on a train and visit other cities.  We went to see our friend Silvia in Torino recently and we just loved the city. Silvia became a friend of ours a few years ago when my friend Steve Bedell, an attorney from Illinois, asked if I would check in on her on my visit to Rome. Silvia was an exchange student 18 years ago and stayed with the Bedell family while attending high school. She is an exceptional person, who like so many other Italians, is trying to find her way in a nation that is facing economic hardship. Silvia let us stay at her home, she wouldn't have it any other way, and was a tour guide for two full days.

 

It is sunny here everyday and such a relief from the sketchy weather we get in Chicago. I’m running and biking more than I have in the last ten years. Yesterday, Loree, our son Scott and girlfriend Grace, who are visiting us this week, took the bus to Asolo. I decided to ride my bike there to meet them. It is an easy trek of roughly 25 miles, but it included a steep climb to the top without switchbacks. I realized then and there the difference in my fitness today versus ten years ago. Loree and I take long walks usually totally at least 10,000 steps, but have done as many as 8 miles in a day. I don't have a scale but I know I have lost at least 7 lbs. since last month.

Our apartment is affordable, new and generally nice…but we dearly miss not having an air conditioner! This is a big negative as the windows don’t have screens and you’re stuck with the choice of sweating bullets with windows semi-closed or having mosquitoes sneak in and attack in the night. July is the hottest month here and temps should cool down in August but we need to find a permanent solution if we are going to stay in this apartment. Another big negative is Italian bureaucracy. I was prepared in my mind that this would give me immense headaches but frankly you just get worn down by the red tape. 

Another annoying thing are the trains. While they are faster and cleaner than US trains they rarely run on time. Beware of the 2 for 1 train ticket deals as well as they are non refundable and not useable for any other time if you miss your connection. This applies only to the high-speed trains, but we learned the hard way if you miss your connection it requires buying a new ticket a full price.

Our next big adventure will be north to the Alto-Adige region where German is spoken alongside Italian. Stay tuned!